eu3000is generator

I live in an area where power outage for 2 hours is quite common maybe every other day. I am looking to buy a generator and an automatic transfer switch. so that when the electricity goes I can carry on using my computer maybe 1 split AC, and a fridge freezer. I have recently come across honda EU3000is which I like because of the low noise it claims to make. I would like to know if it is possible to add a automatic transfer switch so that it would start automatically when there is a power outage and stop the generator when there the power comes back.
Are there any generators that have an automatic transfer switch built into the generator?
Can you recommend a good quality Automatic transfer switch? and where I can get the best price for it?

Why does power go out so often, have you dealt with the electric company. I had a loose main the electric co did not tighten that was the cause for years. Something that often , why can`t it be isolated and fixed. For frequent outages get a unit designed for backup a Ng -Propane generac standby system will be set up for the job for about the same price, once you figure in all the extras. But for 2 hrs you only need a good Ups for computer, the frige can hold for 2 hrs. A Ups would be cheapest and most reliable.

wrote in message

I live in an area where power outage for 2 hours is quite common maybe every other day. I am looking to buy a generator and an automatic transfer switch. so that when the electricity goes I can carry on using my computer maybe 1 split AC, and a fridge freezer. I have recently come across honda EU3000is which I like because of the low noise it claims to make. I would like to know if it is possible to add a automatic transfer switch so that it would start automatically when there is a power outage and stop the generator when there the power comes back.
Are there any generators that have an automatic transfer switch built into the generator?
Can you recommend a good quality Automatic transfer switch? and where I can get the best price for it?

Autotransfers switches aint cheap in any form lots more money than the genny you mentioned. The Honda you have chosen is only 25 amps 120v. Not hardly big enough for starting an a/c. Might be barely big enough to run you frig. Motors need 6 times the running amps or FLA to start. You realize that there will be small voltage lapses when the transfer switch changes state. Unless you really spend some money, over $100k for the softloading type of switch. I have installed some of these for the phone company. They work slick, I sure can not afford something like that.
If your really serious about power then you need to do some googling for Kohler, Caterpillar, Multiquip, and even the Generac at the orange borg store. Better find a fuel source that is compatible for your location.
Auto transfer switches that I would recommend are made by Asco, Zenith, Eaton, SQD, GE, and Siemans. Eaton formally CH/Westinghouse has a line of residential transfer switches. Not sure if they are auto or not.

Why does power go out so often, have you dealt with the electric company.

For over a decade my rural area had many brown outs and power outages.
Calling the power company resulted in some basic tests with "the beast" and they claiming 116 volts was in spec.
I found out how really bad it was when I bought a good size UPS for computer gear that graphed out the daily voltage variances. The cap bank could not keep up with the load.
My area is turning into a bedroom community for NYC. Last year they finally upgraded the local distribution system in my area. Power now averages 120 volts even on a hot summer day when everyone has the central A/C running.
Talking to some people unofficially I found out that the distribution system has been overloaded for years, needed a huge upgrade but the power company has been putting next to no money into their infrastructure. If it broke they fixed it, otherwise it limped along . All they cared about was the profit margin.
Steve

Steve Stone wrote:

Calling the power company resulted in some basic tests with "the beast" and they claiming 116 volts was in spec.

Well, it certainly is. No utility in N. America promises better +/- 5%, afaik, and you're in that range. -- derek

"Steve Stone" wrote:

they claiming 116 volts was in spec.

It's not? Most of the power input specs I've seen are at least 110-130 if not more.

Last year they finally upgraded the local distribution system in my area.

So is it fixed or not?

wrote in message

I live in an area where power outage for 2 hours is quite common maybe every other day. I am looking to buy a generator and an automatic transfer switch. so that when the electricity goes I can carry on using my computer maybe 1 split AC, and a fridge freezer. I have recently come across honda EU3000is which I like because of the low noise it claims to make. I would like to know if it is possible to add a automatic transfer switch so that it would start automatically when there is a power outage and stop the generator when there the power comes back.
Are there any generators that have an automatic transfer switch built into the generator?
Can you recommend a good quality Automatic transfer switch? and where I can get the best price for it?

There is an after-market "remote start" setup for the eu3000i that you can use to operate an automatic transfer switch. The eu3000i is a great machine, I struggled real hard over that particular generator, and recently settled for the eu2000i (which does not have electric start)

>

It's not? Most of the power input specs I've seen are at least 110-130 if not more.

The power compnay claimed 116 was the bottom of their tolerance. What I din't mention was that on a hot summer day it was more like barely 113 with lights flickering whenever nearby neighbors central A/C units turned on.
Around 112 - 113 my TrippLite 2,200 VA UPS starts kicking in to boost up the power to "normal"

Last year they finally upgraded the local distribution system in my area.
So is it fixed or not?

Seems to be fixed at my location.

"Derek Broughton" wrote in message

Steve Stone wrote:
Calling the power company resulted in some basic tests with "the beast" and they claiming 116 volts was in spec.
Well, it certainly is. No utility in N. America promises better +/- 5%, afaik, and you're in that range. -- derek

According to the power company 116 was the low end of their acceptable limits. During hot summer days it was more like barely 113 with flickering lights whenever the neighbors central A/C kicked in.
Bottom line is, a distribution system upgrade fixed the "problem" for me. You may not say it is a problem, but for me it was a problem.

There is also a thing called "Power Quality" and the utilities have to be concerned with it.
It is basically a voltage dip trough voltage and length of voltage dip time product charted on a curve along with freequency of occurence to indicate the utilities shining star level.
It seems to me it may be a relative thing also. So if you are running at 108 (legal 120 +/- 10%) and they spike you to the max 132 v (still legal) it counts as a 20% spike against them. Youmay have equioment adjusted to compensate for you low voltage and they just burnt you out with a "legal" voltage change.
"Steve Stone" wrote in message

"Derek Broughton" wrote in message Steve Stone wrote:
Calling the power company resulted in some basic tests with "the beast" and they claiming 116 volts was in spec.
Well, it certainly is. No utility in N. America promises better +/- 5%, afaik, and you're in that range. -- derek
According to the power company 116 was the low end of their acceptable limits. During hot summer days it was more like barely 113 with flickering lights whenever the neighbors central A/C kicked in.
Bottom line is, a distribution system upgrade fixed the "problem" for me. You may not say it is a problem, but for me it was a problem.

Nice, but a little small...LOL
Careful the HTML OCD hounds here may call you names and tell your mom for that

It's not? Most of the power input specs I've seen are at least 110-130 if not more.

The power compnay claimed 116 was the bottom of their tolerance. What I din't mention was that on a hot summer day it was more like barely 113 with lights flickering whenever nearby neighbors central A/C units turned on.
Around 112 - 113 my TrippLite 2,200 VA UPS starts kicking in to boost up the power to "normal"

=20 Last year they finally upgraded the local distribution system in my area. =20 So is it fixed or not?

Seems to be fixed at my location. =20
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"Steve Stone" wrote in message

It's not? Most of the power input specs I've seen are at least 110-130 if not more.

The power compnay claimed 116 was the bottom of their tolerance. What I din't mention was that on a hot summer day it was more like barely 113 with lights flickering whenever nearby neighbors central A/C units turned on.
Around 112 - 113 my TrippLite 2,200 VA UPS starts kicking in to boost up the power to "normal"

Last year they finally upgraded the local distribution system in my area.
So is it fixed or not?

Seems to be fixed at my location.

SolarFlare wrote:

Nice, but a little small...LOL
Careful the HTML OCD hounds here may call you names and tell your mom for that
I don't have a problem with _his_ posts - they come through properly with a

text/plain component. It's your reply to his post that's b0rked.

Steve Stone wrote:

"Derek Broughton" wrote in message Steve Stone wrote:
Calling the power company resulted in some basic tests with "the beast" and they claiming 116 volts was in spec.
Well, it certainly is. No utility in N. America promises better +/- 5%, afaik, and you're in that range.
According to the power company 116 was the low end of their acceptable limits. During hot summer days it was more like barely 113 with flickering lights whenever the neighbors central A/C kicked in.
Bottom line is, a distribution system upgrade fixed the "problem" for me. You may not say it is a problem, but for me it was a problem.

I can understand that, but you should count yourself lucky that it got fixed at all, because the regulations they're operating under quite possibly even make the 112-113 you've seen acceptable. -- derek

You been sleeping here again...LOL
I have no problem with HTML whatsoever. It is the text of the furture and present. Some here disagree strongly.
"Derek Broughton" wrote in message

SolarFlare wrote:
Nice, but a little small...LOL
Careful the HTML OCD hounds here may call you names and tell your mom for that
I don't have a problem with _his_ posts - they come through properly with a text/plain component. It's your reply to his post that's b0rked.