Generator: Hours Per Gallon Load-Dependent?

"Vaughn Simon" wrote in message

"RamRod Sword of Baal" <RamRod @truthonly> wrote in message
Simple isn't it.
Yes, but you obviously still don't get it.
Vaughn

From someone who makes snide comments, and then still does not understand how a capacitor works charging up from AC power, that is a joke.
Why not do a bit of research and discover that I am correct............
Statements like ......

I know, and no disrespect intended, but that is why I have to say these things so that no one takes your advise on this particular matter.

......are quite stupid when you do not understand the basics of how a PSC or a CSCR motor works.
Suggest you go back to school on this matter.

"You" wrote in message

In article , "RamRod Sword of Baal" <RamRod @truthonly> wrote:

snipped .

Sorry to inform you, but the capacitor DOES charge up, and it fires BACK through the start winding., that is how the whole thing works.

Where did you "Find" your degree in Electrical Engineering? Post Toasties Box? Because obviously you didn't earn one.....

Well then please tell us how you think it works then.................
How does the capacitor affect the motor, how does it work?
Are you saying that the capacitor does not charge up in this case using AC power?
Are you saying that it does not discharge through the start or Auxiliary windings?
Tell us your theory.

"Vaughn Simon" wrote in message

"RamRod Sword of Baal" <RamRod @truthonly> wrote in message and you have added a capacitor that needs to charge up.
...and you still don't "get it".
Vaughn

It is noted that you do not come up with answers, only silly remarks.
Are you saying that the capaicitor does not charge up?
Are you saying that a combined capacitor and stalled motor does not need more current than a stalled motor alone?
Enlightne us, with your wisdom <sic>

"RamRod Sword of Baal" <RamRod @truthonly> wrote in message

Suggest you go back to school on this matter.

I suggest that you learn something about reactance and how Xl and Xc interact and their effect on phase angle, and then talk to any good HVAC person about cold starts, but I have no further interest in teaching you anything or in getting into a flame war with you. We will live our lives in peace, but separately.
Bye Vaughn

"RamRod Sword of Baal" <RamRod @truthonly> wrote in message

Enlightne us, with your wisdom <sic

Please take your juvenile flames somewhere else.
Vaughn

Who cares how an ac cap works? The bottom line is he would be better off disposing of his old fridge PERIOD! Regardless if he is running it on the grid or a genny! The efficiency of today's fridges and window ac units has improved ten fold
RamRod Sword of Baal wrote:

"Vaughn Simon" wrote in message
"RamRod Sword of Baal" <RamRod @truthonly> wrote in message and you have added a capacitor that needs to charge up.
...and you still don't "get it".
Vaughn
It is noted that you do not come up with answers, only silly remarks.
Are you saying that the capaicitor does not charge up?
Are you saying that a combined capacitor and stalled motor does not need more current than a stalled motor alone?
Enlightne us, with your wisdom <sic

"Vaughn Simon" wrote in message

"RamRod Sword of Baal" <RamRod @truthonly> wrote in message
Suggest you go back to school on this matter.
I suggest that you learn something about reactance and how Xl and Xc interact and their effect on phase angle, and then talk to any good HVAC person about cold starts, but I have no further interest in teaching you anything or in getting into a flame war with you. We will live our lives in peace, but separately.
Bye Vaughn

It is of course noted that you did not bother to answer either of the posed questions :-
Are you saying that the capaicitor does not charge up?
Are you saying that a combined capacitor and stalled motor does not need more current than a stalled motor alone?
But dodged both of them.
If you knew, you would have answered..............

"Vaughn Simon" wrote in message

"RamRod Sword of Baal" <RamRod @truthonly> wrote in message

Snip

not interested in getting into a flame war with you. We will live our lives in peace, but separately.

Maybe you should have thought of that when you posted your first message to me on this matter then, if you did not think I was correct, then you need not have put in all your snide remarks.

"no one that you know" wrote in message

Who cares how an ac cap works?

The only point is that he could spend money trying to make it work and not get anywhere.
I am not so sure if buying a new fridge would solve his problem, no doubt the new fridges are more efficient, but here the problem seems to be getting it to run.
A new more efficient fridge does not necessarily mean a fridge that starts on less power.

On 27 Aug 2006 13:52:08 -0400, nicksanspam@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

nicksanspam@ece.villanova.edu> wrote:
Neon John wrote:
Another solution that doesn't require any adjustment but does have a fuel consumption penalty is to have some other small load on the generator, enough load to cause the engine to spin a bit faster.
Perhaps the load can be made to appear a few seconds before the fridge starts (to speed up the generator) and disappear at the instant of starting.
Maybe something like this, with a 100W bulb and a 130 F thermostat:
---X--- -------- | | -------- | |---------www---------| | | EU2000 | | fridge | | |---------------------| | -------- --------
Then again, the thermostat in the circuit above will open up after it closes and the bulb cools off. Maybe this would work better:
---www---X--- -------- | | -------- | |----------www------------| | | EU2000 | | fridge | | |-------------------------| | -------- --------
With another low-value 10 watt resistor that keeps the thermostat warm during the time when it's closed.

Damn, Nick (I say this smiling), you could complicate a blowjob! :-)
If you want switch the load then why not use a simple HVAC timer module:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/files/rv/gendelay/tdr_photo.jpg
As an example. No, this isn't the correct timer for this application - just a photo of an example unit. These timers are very cheap - under $20, very reliable and easy to use. Arrange the circuit so that when the fridge thermostat calls for cooling, the aux load is energized for say, 15 seconds, then the timer de-energizes the aux load and energizes the compressor. The TDR and one or two relays is required. A gas furnace fan delay module (slightly more expensive) will do the job with no additional hardware.
An alternative that is even simpler involves using an HVAC thermal delay contactor. This type of contactor involves a Klixon-type thermostat with a heating element bonded to it. When energized, the heater causes the Klixon to change states after a delay for heating. A similar delay occurs upon de-energizing as the element cools. These things are also dirt-cheap and found in furnace blower controls, heat pump blast coil controls and so on.
Arrange things so the fridge thermostat applies power to the heater and to the contacts. The NC contact goes to the aux load and the NO contact to the compressor. After the heating delay passes the aux load is de-energized and the compressor energized. No aux relays needed.
That said, I see no need for anything more complicated than plugging in a small load and allowing it to operate all the time. A 100 watt lamp is more than enough to spin up my (non-EU) inverter generator enough to start high-inrush loads. The fuel penalty is minimal and not worth my effort to negate.
John --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.neon-john.com Cleveland, Occupied TN Don't let your schooling interfere with your education-Mark Twain

On 27 Aug 2006 11:03:53 -0700, "philkryder" wrote:

Would it be useful to have a timer switch that would let the fridge cycle on and off based on time (say every half hour or some other variable amount).

No. Most refrigerators are designed for the compressor to run >80% of the time. Artificially reducing the run time will reduce the cooling and probably will result in a health danger.

And have a second timer that applied a 50mf capacitor load for say 5 seconds BEFORE transferring power to the fridge.
Would that capacitor load be sufficient to cause the generator to rev up before switching in the fridge load?

Unknown. Some inverters react poorly to highly reactive loads. The Honda might or might not handle it.
John

nicksanspam@ece.villanova.edu wrote: Neon John wrote:
Another solution that doesn't require any adjustment but does have a fuel consumption penalty is to have some other small load on the generator, enough load to cause the engine to spin a bit faster.
Perhaps the load can be made to appear a few seconds before the fridge starts (to speed up the generator) and disappear at the instant of starting.
Maybe something like this, with a 100W bulb and a 130 F thermostat:
---X--- -------- | | -------- | |---------www---------| | | EU2000 | | fridge | | |---------------------| | -------- --------
Nick ---

John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.neon-john.com Cleveland, Occupied TN Don't let your schooling interfere with your education-Mark Twain

On Sun, 27 Aug 2006 13:44:31 GMT, "Vaughn Simon" wrote:

"Neon John" wrote in message
The hard start kit that someone else proposed as a solution probably won't work with an inverter genny. The hard start kit is nothing more than a capacitor and a time delay of some sort. It causes the motor to generate more torque but at the expense of more starting current. Since you're already current-deficient during starting, the kit will probably make things worse.
Neon, you are incorrect on this one. A hard start will significantly (sometimes dramatically) reduce (not increase) starting surge, and it has no way of knowing what kind of generator is connected to it.

No I'm not. I invite you to get out your amp-clamp and see.
John --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.neon-john.com Cleveland, Occupied TN Don't let your schooling interfere with your education-Mark Twain

"Neon John" wrote in message

On Sun, 27 Aug 2006 13:44:31 GMT, "Vaughn Simon" vaughnsimonHATESSPAM@att.FAKE.net> wrote:
No I'm not. I invite you to get out your amp-clamp and see.

If you have an amp-clamp that does that trick (peak current) I invite you to come by my house. I have two identical air conditioners boght the same day, one with...one without a hard-start kit. I will bet you a beer.
Vaughn

Mine starts with a eu1000 even when the freezer or furnace blower and a few cf lights allready on. Bottom line is CONSERVATION reduce the load reduces the need for a bigger supply...........I reduced my load 2.5 years ago and have allready saved over fifeteen thousand KWH's
RamRod Sword of Baal wrote:

"no one that you know" wrote in message Who cares how an ac cap works?
The only point is that he could spend money trying to make it work and not get anywhere.
I am not so sure if buying a new fridge would solve his problem, no doubt the new fridges are more efficient, but here the problem seems to be getting it to run.
A new more efficient fridge does not necessarily mean a fridge that starts on less power.

Neon John wrote:

---www---X--- -------- | | -------- | |----------www------------| | | EU2000 | | fridge | | |-------------------------| | -------- --------
... with another low-value 10 watt resistor that keeps the thermostat warm during the time when it's closed.
Damn, Nick (I say this smiling), you could complicate a blowjob! :-)

I was trying to think of a simple way to do this without messing with the fridge thermostat wiring, and something that might work for other starting loads as well, at the plug. Nick